On Tuesday morning, June 4, 2025, two traditional Polynesian voyaging canoes, Hōkūleʻa and Hikianalia, departed Hilo, Hawaii for the long passage south to French Polynesia. The voyage is a continuation of the Polynesian Voyaging Society’s four-year circumnavigation of the Pacific Ocean.
The two canoes, manned by volunteers from Polynesia and around the world, have visited 36 countries, 100 indigenous territories, 440 ports and logged 43,000 miles. The mission of the extended cruise is to unite the people of the Pacific basin through traditional Polynesian navigation, traditions and culture, with an emphasis on the health and welfare of the ocean itself.
When I first sailed across the South Pacific, David Lewis’s book We, the Navigators had just come out, and we read his explanation of traditional Polynesian navigation techniques avidly. We had only celestial navigation to guide us, so the ancient tricks and trades of the first people to explore this vast ocean was of real interest and import.
Through Lewis’ book, we learned how to read the significance of changes to wave train patterns near islands. We discovered that when approaching a coral atoll in the Tuamotus or elsewhere, the turquoise color of the lagoons would be reflected on the undersides of clouds long before we could see them providing a very clear road map to steer by.
Of course, we followed the stars since we were shooting evening star sights as well as regular sun sights during the day. But, the Polynesians had long ago discovered patterns in the stars that gave them accurate bearings and courses.
I have to say, that crossing the South Pacific with some knowledge of ancient navigation techniques truly enriched the experience and gave us a greater appreciation for early explorers who sailed and populated the length and breadth of this huge ocean from Hawaii in the north to New Zealand in the south.
On this leg of the cruise, the Hokule’a is skippered by the society’s CEO and chief navigator Nainoa Thompson. “This leg is about listening deeply to the ocean, to the stars, to nature and to our ancestors,” said Thompson. “We are sailing the ancient sea road to reconnect with Tahiti, our ancestral homeland. This voyage honors the teachings of Master Navigator Mau Piailug passed down to us and reminds us of our kuleana to carry them forward.”
Monday this week was day six of the passage. Here’s the Day 6 Update from Hōkūleʻa Crew Member Kanako Uchino Dumaran:
Day 6 since we left Hilo. Our crew is doing great and in good spirits. The ocean and sky have been incredibly dynamic and beautiful, leaving us constantly in awe. The past two days have gifted us breathtaking sunrises. Yesterday, expansive clouds stretched from east to west, suggesting we’re getting closer to the northern edge of the doldrums. This morning, we had a truly spectacular sunrise under clear skies. We have three teams of two, each taking turns with canoe operations and navigation. We’re guided by the sun, moon, stars, swells, winds, and clouds, constantly adjusting our sails.
Hanaikamalama (southern cross) is getting higher while Hokupaʻa (north star) is getting lower, giving us good latitude readings. At sunset and sunrise, we collectively determine our position. Although we use numbers and calculations for estimates, our goal on this voyage is to immerse ourselves deeper into nature. We’re learning to be in tune with the rhythms and language of the sea, honoring and perpetuating how our teacher Mau Piailug navigated. To sail this ancient path of Kealaikahiki is truly a blessing, and Hōkūleʻa is certainly guiding us through. Sending much aloha to all. Mahalo NUI for all your support!
Aloha,
Kanako Uchino Dumaran
